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G A S T R O N O M I C K V A R N E R
11
FISH -
INTHE SEA, OIL ANDWINE
The sea has always been a source of food and
a repository of health. Perhaps this is even
truer of the Adriatic than of other seas. The
clean seawater, rocky coastline and sea bottom,
temperature and numerous freshwater springs
provide a congenial habitat for an exceptional
variety and abundance of undersea life. Fish,
shellfish and cephalopods still live along the
Croatian coast in great numbers. Kvarner has
long been a hatchery in this undersea paradise.
All species are represented, from shrimp and
lagostines (scampi) to lobster and crabs, from
sardines and mackerel to tuna, from cuttlefish
and squid to octopus, from eel to conger eel, from
mussels to oysters and pen shells...
It is also possible to find sufficient quantities of
the finest white-fleshed fish: gilthead, dentex,
sea
bass,
s h e e p s h e a d
bream, two-banded
bream, black umber, grey
mullet, hake, sea bream, surmullet,
John Dory, sole, ray and, best of all, the red
grouper . grouper. How do you prepare
red grouper? However you prepare it, it is
excellent! Many connoisseurs maintain that
when red grouper is poached (na lešo), it is
“the best treat in the world!” With a little olive
oil, salt and seasoning, it is light, healthful and
exceptionally delicious. The broth in which it is
cookedpoached, together with garlic cloves, an
onion, parsley, carrot, tomato, pepper, bay leaf
and a slice of lemon, is a special experience for
those who love good food. The broth of the red
grouper (or John Dory) is the little secret that
enriches the flavor and provides harmony to
all seafood risottos, especially black risotto: the
broth is poured over the rice! For other palates,
red grouper is even better baked, in forno, over
slices of potato, with olive oil and seasonings -
rosemary is sufficient.