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Vele Orjule and Jamna, right next to it, finish with
beautiful pebble beaches. Before Kriška Point, in
the bay that this point closes, there is a twenty
metre long pier. The bay is not very much visited
by yachtsmen, and yet the depth at the main pier
is three metres. Of the bays mentioned, this is the
best shelter from the bora.
Veli Lošinj has its harbours in two bays. The first is
Rovenska Bay, easily told by its long pier. It is
almost 200 metres in length, and since the filling
operations went on almost up to an existing
island, the head of the pier is not the deepest part
(as is usual). You can start tying up starting from
the place at which the pier reached and captured
the islet. On the inside of the pier the depth is
about twometres, all the way to the juncture of the
shore and the jetty. The coast consists of a nice
beach, though with a rather alarming name
Barakuda. At the head of Rovenska Bay there are
two jetties, the depth at the head of the outer of the
two being some four metres. Both of them are
very usually crammed with the boats of the local
people. For those who are interested in old
customs, just near the slipway there is an old stone
olive press to be looked at.
Sailing into Rovenska, we are bound to be taken
aback by the sheer size of the pier, stretching out
into the sea for no particular reason.
The
literature says that in Veli Lošinj in 1799, in the
little shipyard in Rovenska harbour, the first
major ship in Lošinj was built, actually the first in
the whole of the Kvarner islands. During the
nineteenth century there was an ambition to
build a big shipyard on the island, precisely in
Rovenska. It was for this that the harbour was
extended with the construction of this vast pier in
1856.
The shipyard was founded, but the
following year saw the outbreak of a world
shipping crisis. And so nothing came of the
ambitious plans but the pier. That is why it is so
big.
The second port in Veli Lošinj cuts deep into the
heart of the town. Yachtsmen can tie up by the
hundred metre long quay right below the large
Baroque church. At the beginning of the quay (as
you sail in) the depth is about 4 m, but as you get
closer to the town it drops to some 1.5metres.
Nota bene: neither of these two bays provides
adequate shelter from the bora.
Veli Lošinj has long been involved in the tourist
industry.
In 1866 Archduke Charles Stephen
built a well-known mansion (Morska Stra a Sea
Watch), and in 1892 the town was proclaimed a
health resort. The mansion had become famed
for the abundance of all sorts of flora planted in
the grounds, and the archduke's example was
followed by many a sea-captain, who competed to
bring to Lošinj plants unknown to date in that
area. Without expatiating too much on Lošinj
history, for that is the task of other guides, we
might just mention that the hungry can find
some good restaurants here.
Mali Lošinj (which means little Lošinj, though it
is bigger than Veli, or big) is just a few kilometres
away. You can get there by bus, car or boat.
Two miles two the north of Veli, in Privlaka Bay, a
moving bridge has been installed. In summer it
opens twice a day, and one has to find out at what
time. It is safest to ask at the Harbour Master's in
Mali Lošinj. In the event of a strong bora, the
bridge won't open, the reason being the
dangerous waves that hinder sailing in the
channel. Immediately after the exit from the
channel (the Mali Lošinj side) there is a marina.
Naturally, since our aim is to stay in the Lošinj
Channel, we will only watch the bridge turning
and making free the narrow passage for ships
between the two islands. It opens at 9 and 18.
If the bridge does not open, then be careful, for the
bora must be blowing. Best shelter can be found a
mile back towards Veli Lošinj, actually, in deep
Baldarka Bay. The northwestern arm is well
protected from the north winds. At the southern
end there is a small jetty, with a depth of about
three metres, but it is not likely you can find a
space. However, you can also take a break at
anchor.
Now our target is the southernmost part of Cres